Trongsa

Today's drive reversed the route into Bumthang and  brought us back to Trongsa,and a misty moisty drive it was,the clouds almost obliterating the magnificent views but mercifully concealing the fear factor too.

Trongsa until 1975 was the Kingdoms capital,it is almost in the centre of the country and has the second largest Dzong after Thimphu.It is still a very small town and appears to cling perilously to the valley wall.When the monastery and the impressive watchtower some hundreds of feet above it were built in the 16th century it was a formidable defensive position,in the following years,utilising its central location various wise men have united the warring tribes of the valleys into the Himalayan kingdom we now know as Bhutan.

The monastery today is a multi use building,as well as housing monks and it's temple functions it houses various state beaurocrats  and offices,therefore cleverly uniting the Royal,the religious and secular arms of state.

My rather classy hotel is just across the valley and despite the dreary weather conditions has picture window views to die for.

Last nights hotel window view,Jakar Monastery.

From the pass.

Autumn colour.

My Hotel,the top right building.

The Watchtower .

Trongsa Dzong.

Below.

Wall Art.

Ceremonial Dance practice.

I thought he was going to ring it.

Watchtower from the Dzong.

Garden detail.

Ura

Picnic lunch packed we left at 9am for the the 2 hour climb through the end of Choekhor valley and the scenic ascent to Sherthang La, at 11700ft,the portal to Ura valley and the highest in Bhutan.At the La, Ugyen stopped the car I thought this was for a photo opportunity,wrong, it was the start of today's designated hike.Great I said,sarcasm being totally lost on these guys.So from the La we set off down the steeply pitched cow track down through the forest for the 1700ft descent to the medieval village of Ura,during the descent we met a cowherd and his son searching for a missing cow,this made me think of Himalayan Black Bears and Leopards,so I picked up the pace a bit, having read the previous day that a young girl had been killed by a leopard.

As we entered the village we passed the elevated look out post,where they keep a night watch for wild animals.Ura is a very small hamlet,they grow and export potatoes,they keep cows they live a very simple life of subsistence farming.On we walked through the village and up the gentle climb to the far side of the valley where Ugyen was waiting with the car.

Now we began the drive homeward it was surprising how long it took by road to simply arrive at the La where our hike had begun.Actually we are less than 300ks from Thimpu but it would take 3 days driving to get there.

At some point during the descent we stopped for our picnic lunch,I wasn't hungry but they had made such an effort,it would have been extreme bad manners for me to refuse lunch.They spread a rug for me to sit on and unpacked a feast of rice,chicken in a sauce,mixed vegetables,spinach,chips,chilly in cheese sauce,guava and tea.All the while the large crows and sleek looking magpies waited patiently for there turn.Tashi and Ugyen then sent me off walking,while they cleaned up,picking me up on the road 10 minutes later.

 Continuing our journey we stopped about 14ks from Bumthang to visit the Burning lake,this is a rock pool of a fast and deep,eddying mountain river where a  Lama to prove a point had jumped into the water carrying a butter lamp,only to rise from the pool with the lamp still burning.At the site,there was a holy man meditating,he has been in meditation for three years but took time out to explain to Tashi the fine detail of the event,he also obliquely criticized me apparently,because from where I was taking photos a man and his wife had fallen to there deaths last year.Oops. Unsuprisingly,given that flat spots are few and far between many people in this country die in the manner of long falls and sudden stops.

Traffic jam,Bhutan style.

Hiking down to Ura.

Tashi 

The night watch.

Rustic Ura

Looking down the Ura valley.

Love this country.

Eastern Himalayas.

Hard work.

Patience reward.

The Holy man and Tashi.

The Burning Lake.

Jambay Monastery.

Bumthang

First visit today was to one of the earliest temples founded in the 8th century and it seems to be popular with the older pilgrims that visit the valley.

During the walk to the Kurjey monastery,I was interested to see the weed that could be seen growing everywhere was somewhat familiar,so I took a few photos.

The inner sanctum of Kurjey was closed for a private visit by the Kings aunt,and since it is not only one of the oldest but the place where all the Kings of Bhutan are cremated ( Well the dead ones anyway.) it seemed to be fair.We continued our walk along the river bank,crossed the suspension bridge which needed a little care and back along the other bank to Tamshing Monastery where 95 young monks mostly aged under 15 years and all from poor backgrounds where the parents could not afford any other education for them where busy making temple offerings and decorations.

Also visited the 16th century Jambay monastery but foreigners are not allowed inside the temple here,this one sits in a commanding position overlooking the small town,they were also originally fortresses as well. Another creationof the Guru Rimpoche, this guy apparently built 108 temples in a single day,he arrived in Bhutan from Tibet riding a Tiger and his supernatural powers are unlimited.This is the great Lama whose 12 year old reincarnation blessed me at Ganjey temple in  Phobjikha.

Then a break from temples and monasteries,we visited the Wangdicholing Palace founded by the first Kings father and now,yes you guessed it a monastery.

An interesting titbit is that Bumthang women are considered to be the most beautiful in the Kingdom and the current Kings father,the 4th King married 4 sisters from here on the same day,they each have there own palace.This King abdicated in favor of the current King, the 5th to enable democracy to happen in 2008.

I rather think the 4th Kings honeymoon would have been somewhat interesting.

Founded in 8 th century.

Local weed.

Very sticky,very aromatic,grows wild throughout the country.

Kurjey Temple,surrounded by 108 stupas.

The senior monk attending the Kings aunt.

Guru Rimpoche.

Overlooking Choeckhor valley.

It sways quite a lot.

Very cold water.

Busy young monks.

Jambay  Monastery.

Wangdicholing  Palace.

Well built new building in Bumthang.

Local whisky confirmation.

I had heard of the reputation of Bhutan whisky long before I arrived here,I can confirm it is difficult to differentiate between a quality Scotch and the best that a locally distilled whisky has to offer.Believe me,I have put a lot of research into this and I am happy to continue to be the guinea pig for the sake of  harmony and international relationships,but please do not think this is is any thing but advanced diplomacy,pissed who me?

Phobjikha valley to Choekhor Valley

Last glimpse of the Valley.

Today's journey was another 6 and a half hour drive over high altitude passes,mountains and  valleys to the Bumthang region.The scenery as ever spectacular,the passes breathlessly (literally) beautiful and for once the road was good for most of the way.I was merely apprehensive today instead of terrified so perhaps I am becoming more stoic and accepting of driving for hours at a time on ledges with precipitous drops,now I only grip my seat when inching over the many landslip areas.Maybe I have been blessed so often now by eminent personages that my gratitude is due in that direction?

Am now in Bumthang which is a confluence of 4 high altitude valleys and said to resemble Switzerland in appearance,they grow buckwheat here,my excuse for sampling the pancakes.

Yaks at Pele La

Tashi (Guide) and Ugyen (Driver).

11500 ft

Throngsa Monastery

Choekhor Monastery.

Phobjikha Valley

During breakfast great exitement,the first pair of Blacknecked  Cranes had been spotted on the valley floor,from the window two blobs of white could be seen in the most inaccessible part of this beautiful glacial valley,the marsh in the centre.

The Cranes arrive from Tibet like clockwork in the last week of October ,they circle the  temple 3 times,land and perform a spectacular dance,which I have only ever seen on film.This event is so ancient there is a traditional dance that mimics that of the Blacknecked Crane.

Following my itinerary we walked up to the Monastery only to find more excitement,today being a particulary Holy day for the tiny village of Gangtey a Puja was taking place.On entering the temple I witnessed another of the stunning devotional ceremony's from the young monks.Tashi,my guide is very devout and taking me with him we were blessed by the 12 year old Lama,reincarnation of the much revered Guru Rimpoche whose mind is ever present in this temple.The previous Lama spent the final 15 years of his life in solitary contemplation here and was found dead still in the lotus position.Apparently his body has not decayed,has shrunk and is kept in a temple in Thimphu.

Now it was time for a hike through the forest that led us to the opposite side of the valley from the guesthouse where we had spotted the two cranes and sure enough there presence was confirmed by 3 of us sharing binoculars,deperately wanting to photograph this momentous event I approached as close as possible before being blocked by the fast flowing stream and the boggy,marshy ground.

My second night here in the valley I have elected to stay at a local farmhouse and whilst trying to find it came across a second major religious event at the Stupa attended by what appeared to be the entire valley population.The local schoolteacher being the son in law of the farmer led us to the farm and invited us to the annual concert of the kids at the school hall that evening.

During dinner at the farm a message arrived to the effect the concert was ready to begin and all were waiting for the Guest of Honour to take his seat, Me! OMG what else can happen on this incredible eventfull day.So scrambling over two paddocks,streams and marshland in darkness with the farmer and his wife leading we hurried of to the schoolhouse.

Taking my seat at the back of the hall,there were only 4 chairs,everyone else was sitting on the floor,the concert began.What a fabulous night of entertainment it was,these kids from 5 to 15 put on a great show of song and dance,comedy and sketch that made it a privilege to be part of the audience of justifiably proud mums and dads.

I could not have scripted a more unique day.

The farmstay itself,well a freezing night spent on a thin mattress on the floor certainly added uniqueness to the occasion.

However,first thing this morning the Farmer and his wife hurried off to the capital Thimphu as a tragedy involving the death of their son had occurred,in true Buddhist lifestyle not a hint of this did they show.Emotion being something to overcome.

Guesthouse at Phobjikha .

Spot the Blacknecked Cranes!

Gangtey Temple.

From Gangtey

Looking up the valley.

Village baby.

And another.

Local boy.

Tashi,Nicky,Ruth and Simmi.

The Cranes

Villagers.

Cute...

Part of the ceremony.

Farmstay living room.

School concert.

Ditto

Candle Dance

Audience.

Farmstay bedroom.

Farmhouse.