Mandi i'm off: Phobjikha Valley

During breakfast great exitement,the first pair of Blacknecked Cranes had been spotted on the valley floor,from the window two blobs of white could be seen in the most inaccessible part of this beautiful glacial valley,the marsh in the centre.

The Cranes arrive from Tibet like clockwork in the last week of October ,they circle the temple 3 times,land and perform a spectacular dance,which I have only ever seen on film.This event is so ancient there is a traditional dance that mimics that of the Blacknecked Crane.

Following my itinerary we walked up to the Monastery only to find more excitement,today being a particulary Holy day for the tiny village of Gangtey a Puja was taking place.On entering the temple I witnessed another of the stunning devotional ceremony's from the young monks.Tashi,my guide is very devout and taking me with him we were blessed by the 12 year old Lama,reincarnation of the much revered Guru Rimpoche whose mind is ever present in this temple.The previous Lama spent the final 15 years of his life in solitary contemplation here and was found dead still in the lotus position.Apparently his body has not decayed,has shrunk and is kept in a temple in Thimphu.

Now it was time for a hike through the forest that led us to the opposite side of the valley from the guesthouse where we had spotted the two cranes and sure enough there presence was confirmed by 3 of us sharing binoculars,deperately wanting to photograph this momentous event I approached as close as possible before being blocked by the fast flowing stream and the boggy,marshy ground.

My second night here in the valley I have elected to stay at a local farmhouse and whilst trying to find it came across a second major religious event at the Stupa attended by what appeared to be the entire valley population.The local schoolteacher being the son in law of the farmer led us to the farm and invited us to the annual concert of the kids at the school hall that evening.

During dinner at the farm a message arrived to the effect the concert was ready to begin and all were waiting for the Guest of Honour to take his seat, Me! OMG what else can happen on this incredible eventfull day.So scrambling over two paddocks,streams and marshland in darkness with the farmer and his wife leading we hurried of to the schoolhouse.

Taking my seat at the back of the hall,there were only 4 chairs,everyone else was sitting on the floor,the concert began.What a fabulous night of entertainment it was,these kids from 5 to 15 put on a great show of song and dance,comedy and sketch that made it a privilege to be part of the audience of justifiably proud mums and dads.

I could not have scripted a more unique day.

The farmstay itself,well a freezing night spent on a thin mattress on the floor certainly added uniqueness to the occasion.

However,first thing this morning the Farmer and his wife hurried off to the capital Thimphu as a tragedy involving the death of their son had occurred,in true Buddhist lifestyle not a hint of this did they show.Emotion being something to overcome.